An important feature of many shoe lasts is the so-called last break. This means that the last consists of two parts connected by a mechanism that allows it to fold and reduce its volume. Thanks to this, after the shoe production process is finished, the last can be easily removed from inside the shoe. Without this solution, removing the last from a finished shoe would be much more difficult, especially in footwear with a narrow opening.

Patterns

Footwear patterns are a set of template pieces used to cut all parts of the shoe upper. Each pattern piece corresponds to a specific part of the construction, such as the toe area, side panels, tongue, or heel counter. After being cut from the material, the individual pieces are stitched together to form the finished upper.

Patterns are developed based on the shoemaking last, which is why they are directly related to its shape and proportions. The last defines the length, width, and volume of the shoe, while the patterns translate these proportions into flat pieces that, once stitched together, create a three-dimensional form fitted to the last.

Using Air Force 1 sneaker patterns as an example, we will show the most important markers found on individual pattern pieces. These are small markings that indicate how the different parts should be connected with each other.

They make it easier to align the elements correctly and help maintain the proper stitching sequence during the assembly of the upper.

1. Overlap seam line – these are markings that indicate the stitching line for an overlap seam. The element with this marking is overlapped by another piece and then stitched together along the designated line.

2.Perforation markings – usually shown in the form of small circles. They most often indicate the places where holes for the laces should be punched. In some models, such as the AF1 or AJ1, this type of perforation can also be found on the toe box, where it serves both a decorative and a ventilation function.

3. Center line marking – indicates the central axis of the upper and often appears on elements that are part of this axis. It provides a reference point, making it easier to align and calibrate different parts with each other. Additionally, this marking on the edge of the upper at the toe and heel helps to center the upper on the last during the lasting process.

4. Medial part marking – this marking indicates the medial (inner) side of the shoe, the side that faces the other foot. It helps identify the correct orientation of the pattern pieces and prevents mistakes when assembling the left and right shoe. These markings are usually shown as small notches or cuts on the edge of the pattern.

5. Lasting line – this line indicates the point to which the upper material should be pulled during the lasting process. The line should align with the edge of the last and its bottom. It serves as an important reference point during shoe assembly, helping to position the upper correctly on the last and maintain the proper proportions and shape of the shoe.

Thanks to this chapter, you have become familiar with the most important information about patterns and lasts. In our store, you will find many models designed for sneaker customization. All of them are carefully developed and created based on the appropriate last models.

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