3. Sewing machine

  • The first tool we’ll take a closer look at in this guide is the sewing machine. If you want to continue your journey with hand-sewn custom sneakers, you probably already know that you need to think about getting a machine. A sensible new machine can be bought for around €1600, but by looking on the secondary market you can save well over half of that. In terms of operation, it’s a very simple machine, and I’m sure you’ll get along with it quickly.

    We’ll describe several different machines that can also be used for sewing uppers, but the optimal solution is a post bed machine. This is a machine specifically designed for sewing shoe uppers.

  • How works sewing machine

    During sewing, the needle moves up and down. When it moves downward, it pierces the material and pulls the upper thread through it. This thread passes to the underside of the fabric together with the needle, forming the basis of the future stitch.

    As the needle begins to rise, the upper thread does not follow it perfectly. As a result, a small loop of thread forms behind the needle, which is crucial to the entire sewing process.

    Next, the hook, which rotates beneath the stitch plate, catches this loop of the upper thread and pulls it around the lower thread located on the bobbin. This movement causes the upper thread to wrap around the lower thread.

    In the next stage, both threads are tightened, and the point where they interlock is pulled precisely into the center of the material. This is the moment when a classic lockstitch is formed—strong, neat, and durable.

    At the same time, as the needle completes its movement, the feed dogs located beneath the fabric rise, move the material forward by a set stitch length, and then lower again so they do not block the next needle penetration.

    This entire process happens in a fraction of a second and is repeated hundreds or thousands of times per minute, allowing the sewing machine to create an even, consistent, and highly precise seam.

  • Post-bed machine

    A post-bed sewing machine differs from a classic flat-bed machine in that its working area is raised in the form of a vertical column. This design allows the material to be freely rotated around the needle, which is essential when sewing three-dimensional shapes such as sneaker uppers.

    At the top of the column is the needle, which moves up and down and carries the upper thread through the material. Directly above it operates the presser foot, whose role is to stabilize the leather or fabric during sewing. Post-bed machines often use roller presser feet so they do not restrict movement when working on curved parts.

    Inside the lower section of the column are the hook and the bobbin with the lower thread. The hook rotates in sync with the needle movement and catches the loop of the upper thread, wrapping it around the lower thread. This is where the lockstitch is formed and locked inside the material.

    Beneath the presser foot, in the upper part of the column, the feed dogs move the material forward by one stitch length. In post-bed machines, their construction allows precise control of the leather even when sewing tight curves and small radii.

    At the rear of the machine there is a handwheel, which allows manual control of individual needle penetrations—extremely important when working on precise details. The drive is provided by a motor (most commonly a servo motor), which enables smooth speed control and very slow sewing when handling difficult sections.

    The system is completed by the thread tension assembly, thread guides, and feeding mechanisms, all of which ensure that the stitch remains even and consistent, even when sewing thick leather and multiple layers of material.

  • Machine market

    Let’s start with where to look for machines. Nowadays, no manufacturer sells machines directly through their own website or stores. Their machines are distributed via licensed dealers who are responsible for sales in a given region. That’s why, if you’re interested in buying a specific model, you should search online to find out who sells it in your country or region. Just type the model name into Google, and your internet/VPN should locate the nearest dealer.

    It’s also worth checking websites offering second-hand sewing equipment. Very often you can find really great deals there. Below we show example websites where you can find such offers.

  • Jack machines

    In our workshop, we use Jack JK6691 machines. We’ve had them for five years and haven’t experienced any issues so far. Since then, this model has been replaced by newer, technologically improved machines such as the Jack S7 or Jack S5. Although it’s considered a mid-range machine, for shoemakers who create custom shoes rather than producing on a massive scale, it’s an ideal solution. A new one costs around €1600.

  • Texi machines

    Texi machines are produced by the Polish brand Strima, which for many years has been one of the larger suppliers of equipment in the economic segment in Europe. The company is well known among both small workshops and craftsmen who are looking for reliable solutions at a reasonable price.

    Their flagship model is the TEXI POST DD PREMIUM – a post bed machine offering a very good quality-to-price ratio. This machine is particularly well suited for sewing uppers, where freedom of material handling and precision stitching are crucial. TEXI focuses on ease of use, simple servicing, and good availability of spare parts, which is a major advantage in everyday work.

  • More brands

    It’s definitely worth considering machines from brands like PFAFF, DURKOPP ADLER, ZOJE, SINGER, JUKI, YAMATA, TECHSEW, and GLOBAL—all of them are well-established and respected manufacturers. Machines from Pfaff or Dürkopp Adler are considered among the best on the market, but they are also some of the most expensive.

  • Needles and threads

    The undisputed number one among needles are Schmetz needles. Post bed machines use the 135×5 needle system, and this is the designation you should look for when purchasing needles. These needles are available in different types, each designed for specific materials.